The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.
"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of growers who make vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the World
To date, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots inside urban environments," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on